--Thoreau
I had a friend who lived in a small settlement named Cascade, less than twenty miles from where we lived. I had begged and begged Mama to let me ride the Dick & Willie (Danville & Western Railroad) to see her. After all, the tracks ran right by her house and I could go and come back the same day.
Finally Mama said, “Well, go on… then I’ll have a few less questions to answer.” By that time in my life, I was probably in the sixth grade. I knew well that Mama would just as soon I never asked another question.
The station was on the next ridge north, so it was just a matter of running down the path by the big water tank that served two purposes. It was a reservoir for drinking water for that part of town, and it was “insurance” in case of fire at the lumber yard that was in the valley between the two ridges. At the end of the path there was a narrow paved road that led straight up the hill to the station. Of course there was no sidewalk. And birdfoot violets grew in clumps all along the edge of the cracked pavement.
Mama had “commanded” me to put on shoes. Reluctantly, I pulled out the little green shoe box and retrieved my shoes which I’d hidden under it, and put them on. I would much rather have gone barefoot so I could feel the warm summer earth between my toes.
As I ran out the door, Mama said, “Don’t you dare run on the road! Run in the grass and don’t stop for nothin’!” And then she added, “And bring me back a big sack o’ ‘greens’.”
Being afraid not to, I did just exactly as she told me to. If I didn’t, I knew Mama would find out one way or another, and that would not be a good thing for Youngest Daughter.
The train was in the station. I went to the ticket window to pay the fare that was twenty-five cents round trip. Then I went to the passenger car and gave the ticket to the conductor who said it would be a little time before the train would pull out. There was just one car and I was the only passenger. Pretty soon I got to thinking: wouldn’t it be something if I could ride in the cab with the engineer! Finally enough courage was mustered to ask the conductor if I could do that. He looked down at me, looked back through the empty car, then said, “Well, Little Lady, let’s go see.”
My father had frequently brought me to the station to see the trains which I dearly loved, and we made a game of learning all the numbers. And frequently, too, we’d get to talk to the engineer. Mostly there was just one engineer who was on that run, and sure enough he was there that morning. The conductor spoke on my behalf, the engineer looked down at me from the cab… thought a minute, then said, “Why not! Come on up… that’s a high step… don’t fall.”
The conductor helped me up into the cab and I was beside myself with joy! Oh, what a day! I was in the cab with the engineer and we were going to Cascade.
Pretty soon the engineer leaned way out the window looking up and down the tracks. Then he yanked on the cord blowing the whistle, the big drivers slowly chugged into motion and steam hissed out over the tracks. We were on the way! I was so excited I could not talk, yet there were so many things I wanted to ask the engineer. While this was not the first time I had ridden a train, it was certainly the first time for riding in the cab with the engineer. As the train gathered speed running faster and faster, I looked first out one side the cab then the other. I remember the engineer putting his big rough hand on my shoulder as he cautioned me to be careful not to stumble in moving around.
Through those red Virginia hills the train rolled… past red fields now turned summer-green with half-grown corn. Occasionally we passed several fields of tobacco, but not many farmers raised tobacco in that area, saying that tobacco was one of those crops that didn’t “take good” to red clay. We ran through velvet green pastures feeding herds and herds of cows and a few horses. And for several miles the tracks ran through piney woods so thick and tall it almost seemed that we were running through a long green tunnel. The sweet fresh fragrance of all those pine trees was purely thrilling.
I’m sure now that the engineer blew the whistle more than he usually did just for my benefit. Every time there’d be someone working in the fields, he’d blow the whistle. We’d wave wildly and so would they. Up to that point in my life, if there ever were a more perfect summer day I could not remember it. The sun beamed down from a flawless blue sky, the wind lay quiet across the summer-warmed land and the fresh smell of the fields and woods mixed right in with the smoke and steam of the train. I didn’t want us to get to Cascade, I didn’t want the train to stop. I wanted to just go on ridin’ over those rails in the cab with the engineer… the wind in my face and blowing through my hair. I loved every sound, the clickety-clack of wheels on the tracks, the hissing of the steam every once in a while, the creaking noises of all that moving iron that were ever present.
But just like most truly wonderful things, there had to be an ending. The goin’ part of the riding came to an end when the train pulled in to Cascade. The station was so tiny it was a wonder we didn’t miss it altogether. Just one small building, more like a square knot along one short stretch of track. On the track side, it had a long narrow window that opened with three rusty hinges along the top that when open had to be held up with an equally rusty hook. There was a small door on the opposite side. I couldn’t help but think how hot that little station would be in summertime and how cold in winter. I have to admit it reminded me of Grandpa’s “little house” at the end of the garden at the farm that “hung” over the topmost edge of the hill. Of course the little station was unattended.
From the cab, across several fields, I could see the farm house where my friend lived. The engineer said he’d be back in mid-afternoon and for me to be sure to be there. Then he helped me down the high step and off I ran, waving to him ‘til he was out of sight. I crawled through two barbed wire fences and over a third one made of hog wire. By this time, my friend had seen me coming and was running to meet me.
Her name was Katie. While we were about the same age, she was considerably taller than I was, so when we talked she had to look down at me as I looked up at her. When her daddy came in from his work at the barn, her mother had a good dinner ready. The kitchen wasn’t very big, but that was the only place they had for the eating table so that’s where we had dinner. Like at our house, the midday meal was never referred to as lunch. It was a full-fledged meal at high noon: just-picked corn on the cob with fresh soft butter churned that morning, new potatoes, green cabbage sizzling in an iron fryer that was placed on a board on the table to keep it hot, and a big red pile of tomatoes with garden-fresh “spring” onions on what Katie’s mother called, the “Sunday platter”. For dessert, she’d made a bread pudding bubbling through the slashes on top, crisp and golden brown at the edges with lots of nuts and raisins across the top. It was served not in little dessert dishes but in bowls. Over the warm pudding she’d poured pure thick sweet cream, saying, “You don’t never eat cold puddin’- it’ll stick to the roof o’ your mouth.” The table was about three feet from the big wood stove. It was really hot. I don’t know why I got the chair nearest the stove but I did, and little beads of sweat ran down my cheeks and dropped on the front of my dress. For a minute I thought they might think I was cryin’. And my hair got real damp. I was afraid to wipe my face for fear somebody might think I was complainin’. Besides, nobody else was wipin’ sweat so I didn’t either and I just got wetter and wetter. Katie’s mother cooked real good, and when I asked “please for a second helping”, she smiled real sweet saying, “Now you just go ahead and eat all you can hold… you got a ways to go to catch up with bein’ big as Katie.” I did just that, ate “all I could hold”, but I was more than a little glad when we’d all finished eating and I could move away from that stove.
After dinner Katie’s mother sent us out to the vegetable garden alongside their barn to pick tomatoes. She, too, mentioned shoes. “Don’t take off your shoes, either one o’ you. There’s ticks in the ground this time o’ year.” They were the biggest tomatoes I’d ever seen. We had taken a bushel basket with us and we picked it full. It was so heavy we had to carry it between us back to the house. Handing me a paper bag, Katie’s mother said, “Here, take this poke o’ tomatoes home to your Mama.” Not having any idea what the word “poke” meant, I peeked inside to see what else was in the bag but I didn’t see anything except tomatoes.
Later, Mama told me that the word actually meant a paper bag. Then, like an afterthought she said, “I guess that word ‘poke’ come from people ‘poking’ things in a paper bag”. Then she added, “But that might not be right.”
Handing us a bucket, Katie’s mother sent us to the spring to get some “cold, fresh water for tea.” The path was so narrow winding around big trees, and rocks as big as bushel baskets, that we could not walk side by side. So Katie led the way down the steep hill. Wild honeysuckle was in full bloom and smelled so sweet I felt like I couldn’t breath deep enough to get all the sweetness inside of me. I buried my head in those creamy white clusters of little trumpet-like blooms. At first glance, the spring looked like nothing more than a dark, deep hole at the bottom of the hill with big stones on either side. A little stream of diamond-clear water was trickling away from it over the rocks, winking in the dapple sunlight.
Katie squatted down on one side, holding tight to the bucket with one hand and holding onto a sapling near the rocks with the other. She leaned way over, pushed the bucket down in the hole and came up with “cold, fresh water for tea”. I remember thinking I was glad not to be taking a bath in water that cold. And I thought, too, it was a good thing that Katie’s arm was nice and long or we’d never have gotten that bucket of water.
Trudging back up the steep hill, past the sweet honeysuckle, Katie said, “We better hurry or the water won’t be cold when we git there and Momma’ll know we just piddled along the path.”
When we got back to the house, Katie’s mother made a big pitcher of sweet tea with a lot of crushed mint which grew in a little patch beside the back door. I drank a big glass and wanted another but I figgered I better not drink two glasses all at one time. If I did I might have to ask the engineer to stop along the way for me to take a walk in the woods and I didn’t know how I could do that.
In no time, it seemed, Katie’s mother turned to me saying, “You better get goin’, it’s ‘bout time for the train.”
I was never to know where that day had gone. On wings of the summer wind, it simply flew away. By the time I’d crossed those fields and through the fences and got to the little station house with the big “poke” of tomatoes for Mama, the train was there. With the engineer’s help I climbed up into the cab and the train pulled out. Again, there were those wonderful sounds… the big, laboring drivers, the hissing steam shooting out on both sides, clickety-clack of wheels on tracks and three pulls on the cord to blow the whistle! Two shorts and one long.
We had only gone a mile or two when I told the engineer that Mama had asked me to bring her some “greens”. He grinned saying, “She musta knowed that this line goes right by the Jonesby farm and they got more ‘greens’ than God.” (His using the word like this did not seem irreverent. It simply was his way of expressing the absolute most.) When I asked where the farm was, he said, “You’ll see… it’s rite ‘round the next big bend which’ll turn us so’s we’ll be headin’ a little northwest.”
Pretty soon, the train started slowing down and then came to a screeching halt. Sure enough, there were two men in the Jonesby field cutting “greens” and throwing them in bushel baskets like we’d picked tomatoes in. The engineer knew both the men. Hollering above the noise of the train he asked, “You got any extry ‘greens’ today?” One of the men who looked like he was in a permanent stoop, managed to slowly stand up and hollered back, “We allus got ‘greens’… long as it’s summertime.”
Almost before I knew it, a big stack of fresh “greens” had been jammed in a bag and thrown up into the cab where the engineer caught it and we were off again. I knew Mama would love those “greens”.
The closer we got to the end of the line the sadder I became. The summer sun had begun to slide down the sky and the long, lean shadows in the piney woods were like dark telephone poles striping the forest floor. It had been a purely smiling day… but now the smiles were gone. When the train went under what was called the “dry bridge” because it was the tracks that were beneath the bridge not water, I knew the day was next to over. When the Dick ‘n Willie pulled into the station, the engineer patted my head, helped me down from the cab, handed me the sack of tomatoes and the bag full of “greens” and said, “Don’t you cry… be careful goin’ up the hill and maybe we’ll go off again someday…”
But we never did. Yet, as I watched the Dick ‘n Willie pulling out of the station without me, I knew that as long as I would live I’d never forget a minute of that summer’s day trip to Cascade… ridin’ in the cab with the engineer, the hot hissing steam, clickety-clack of wheels on tracks… three pulls on the whistle cord… yonder goes the train… Goodnight America… I love you… say don’t you know me I’m your native son. 1
Clickety-clack of wheels on tracks, Clickety-clack… clickety-clack… The “grand” is in the goin’ and not the gettin’ there and back.
The story goes that those who bought the Dick ‘n Willie planned to go west with their newly acquired railroad as far as Bristol, Virginia/Tennessee via Stuart, circa 1884. However, upon completing the line to Stuart they suddenly discovered mountains! Lots of mountains, all sizes and shapes marching westward as far as eye could see. They looked at those mountains and decided right then and there to stop the run at Stuart. Consequently, a depot and turntable were constructed at Stuart in order to be able to turn the engine around, and that was the end of the westward trek of the Dick ‘n Willie. It never ventured beyond Stuart in Patrick County in southern Virginia. 2
1. From: City of New Orleans/Steve Goodman, © 1970-71 Turnpike Tom Music)
2. Courtesy: Carl DeHart, Blue Ridge Regional Library Museum, Martinsville, Virginia


